![]() ![]() Some want the anvil top to be at knuckle height. Heigth is an argument that makes the Ford vs Chev debate seem insignificant. Three legs allow it to fit any floor and you certainly do not want your anvil rocking about.been there done that. By the time you do all that then the welding could warp. Should you want to remove the anvil two bolts loosened and carry away.Ī deck with less than 3/4 thickness is too springy too.but 1/2 might be used if you added some ribs under to keep it strong. It is the simpliest way and is quite speedy. On some others I built with a wider stance.which are better for twisting and bending from the hardee hole.well give me the near vertical one now and use the vise for twisting.Īngle iron with a bolt holding down the edge of the anvil is okay too. But if you really strike on the anvil the near vertical will help reduce the springiness. ![]() There will be others that will say the angle is too sharp on the legs.Okay by me. This fixture will ring like a bell until the sand mix is installed. The oil and sand really are a necessity and can be easily determined when it is installed. This may sound like a lot of work but it is much easier than working with angle iron material. and use heavy duty angle iron bolted into those waist holes. the hollowed out area between the feet of the anvil. ![]() We drill two holes larger than 1/2 diameter at the waist area. Install 3/8 plugs into the holes.the kind that are hex drive and will be lower than flush to the top. drill and tap 3/8 pipe threads so that fine sand and oil can be installed down each leg to near the top.tapping on the tubing as the sand is installed. I have used 1/2 inch and now realise it to be way too thin. The deck for the anvil should fit and a minimum of 3/4 thick. If possible use thick walled tubing with three passes of good welding at all positions. Use at least 1/2 bolts into the concrete (not lead sinkers) called red-heads. The pads on the floor section should be about 1/2 in thick and sufficient width and length.with a bolt hole.to be mounted on the concrete. Although I may be not as experienced as some I will now give you some insite on what Brian has shown me: If you are going to use an anvil at maximum performance then the legs should be about 8 degrees off vertical with the back two at 45 degrees off centerline as the third leg under the horn. Later I built stands for two of the Youngsmiths. Even the anvil stand and the anvil that Brian Brazeal uses as a a heavy hitting unit. I like the 3 legged stand because you can get up close to the anvil (I stand at the end of the anvil with my toes under the stand and my hip against the anvil for a more stable stance. If the anvil is lower you will bend over and have a back ache after just a short time. If you raise the anvil you will stand up straight. I think that this was for the striker and not the blacksmith. Alex Bealer in The Art of Blacksmithing suggests knuckle high with you hand balled into a fist. You didn't ask but I like the face of the anvil to be at wrist height. The caulk really does help quieten the noise. Now when I travel I can take the anvil off the stand and cut the weight that has to be moved. On my traveling anvil I put a layer of caulk on the bottom of the anvil and a piece of plastic wrap on the stand, then placed the anvil on it. On my 500# shop anvil the anvil is glued directly to the stand. Use any good adhesive silicone caulk to make a solid attachment. I think that you have enough weight with the anvil not to need to put sand in the legs, but it you want to go ahead. I helped a student build a stand this past Friday and we used 1/2" thick plate, we then welded 2" X1/4" bar stock around the edges to form a 1" lip to help retain tools and other objects. I like to have the horn over the single leg, but have it the way you like it. Mike, it is generally accepted that the legs should be about 22.5 degrees. Also planning on using silicone or similar between anvil and mounting plate. Question is how much angle should I cut on the legs? 15 deg? 20 deg?Ĥ. Plans include threaded plugs to add sand as ballast. My material is going to be 2" x 4" x 1/4" for the legs and 1/4" plate for feet. If I can't find one inch plate, is it okay to weld lesser thicknesses along the edges to build it up? Or will that increase noise?ģ. All agree a thick plate for mounting the anvil is essential. I wonder about mounting it so the horn goes over the single or double leg side? The anvil is weighted toward the horn and I wonder about stability.Ģ. Mostly because I prefer steel to stumps and to have another welding project.ġ. ![]() I browsed the entire anvil stand thread and decided I prefer a three legged stand. Original John Moreno before anvilbrands picked up his design. I picked up a nearly new JHM competitor anvil. ![]()
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